Let me start by saying, lest time erode the obviousness of the irony in the title of this post, that there is absolutely NOTHING about Egypt (or any other country, for that matter) that should earn it the classless label: shithole. Unfortunately, the current President of the United States (a classless lunatic who is, ironically, completely deserving of such a derogatory label) doesn't agree with me on this point, and made his opinion about Egypt (lumped together with the rest of Africa) known to the world while I actually happened to be there. Thanks for that, buddy!
I've been out of the United States for more than a year now, and my accent (which had already devolved from a strong Boston inflection, to a sort-of generic Californian/American, to picking up bits of British slang from friends made on my travels) at the moment, isn't particularly easy to pin down. I've found since living in Chiang Mai and regularly meeting and interacting with people from multiple countries, that it can change drastically, sometimes over the course of one evening, just depending on who I'm talking to. As a result, I'm asked almost more often if I'm from Ireland or England than if I'm American. Since the disaster that was the 2016 election, it's always a little bit tempting to just nod my head in agreement and adopt a new homeland when someone pegs me as a different nationality, but I never have; and to be fair, there's been no real need to. I've found that most people in other countries have insight enough to realize that those of us who actually show up in their countries are likely NOT the ones responsible for voting in the Orange Nightmare, and that we are just as appalled about it as they are. Still, this was notably the first time I'd ever found myself in a country that had just been indirectly slandered by our Commander in Chief. To their absolute credit, not one local made mention of the comment to me while I was there. In fact, many insisted, upon learning that I was American, that they LOVE Americans and went out of their way to make me feel nothing but welcome in their country. It was a level of hospitality that left me feeling just a little bit guilty.
Despite very much not being a shithole, Egypt is one of those countries (especially since the 2011 Revolution) that we Americans are cautioned about visiting, especially if you're a woman: Don't go walking alone! Wear a fake wedding ring! Stay completely covered up! Don't even LOOK at anyone on the street! Complete social lockdown, they would have us believe, is the only way to avoid being assaulted or robbed or killed. Now, I've been to enough countries at this point to realize that most of America's fear-mongering regarding international travel is just that. Of course we should be cautious and mindful of our possessions and our surroundings, but that same advice applies to anywhere in America just as much, if not more than, in another country. Still, I was actually a bit nervous at the prospect of traveling in Egypt (particularly in Cairo) on my own, in a way that I haven't been with any other country.
I had booked the one-week stop on the way back to Thailand from South Africa because a friend of mine from the States had recently relocated to Dahab, and had insisted that since I was already going to be in Africa, I should meet her in Cairo to do the typical sight-seeing rounds of Cairo, Luxor, and Aswan. Visiting the pyramids had been on my bucket list for a while, and I doubted I was going to find anyone else willing and able to jet off to Egypt with me in the near future. Plus, it WAS on the way (sort of). Done and done. Unfortunately, my friend in Dahab was forced to fly back to the US for a last-minute work obligation just a week prior to our meeting in Cairo, leaving me to fend for myself.
With less than two weeks between learning I was flying solo and actually arriving in Cairo, I had to think fast. I looked into the prospect of hiring guides to take me on day tours of the various sights, and negotiating all of the food/lodging/inter-city travel aspects on my own. It seemed doable, but there was still this nagging bit of worry... Enter my travel companion in South Africa. She had solo traveled in Egypt just a few years prior and had booked a package tour covering her entire week there that took her through all the major sites and on a multi-night cruise down the Nile river. Food, lodging, attractions, everything, all included and organized for her. Plus, she had her own personal Egyptologist guides to tell her exactly what it was she was looking at and steer her clear of scammers. Typically, I would balk at the idea of a packaged holiday. It just seems too easy. Plus, being locked away in a bubble of chaperones, fancy hotels, and fine restaurants, would you really be seeing anything of the REAL country, or just the façade they put up for tourists? Still, my friend raved about her own experience and insisted it was the ONLY way to see Egypt... and I still couldn't quite shake my worry about being on my own...
And so I had my first all-inclusive experience: personal Egyptologist guides, private cars, four and five star accommodation, and a four-night cruise down the Nile. And it was pretty good. Having personal guides, alone, was well worth the cost (which was actually pretty economical considering the level of service) as I don't think I'd have learned a quarter of what they told me about the history of the sites I was visiting were I left to my own devices. I also probably would have been sucked into a scam or two before I figured out what was what and who to ignore. The cruise was a perfect way to spend four days of my trip, allowing for plenty of time to relax in my room, watching the world go by and decompressing from the rapid pace of sightseeing. Meals were all delicious, and I did quite enjoy not having to do my usual routine of wandering aimlessly until I find a restaurant with just the right atmosphere that allows me to blend in without feeling overwhelmed by a crowd or conspicuous for eating alone. Plus, the very first meal I had, after being picked up at the airport in Cairo at 6am, was at a little roadside stand near the pyramids in Giza that made delicious falafel pitas. So I did get a bit of authentic local atmosphere right off the bat! I don't think I'll ever get used to being catered to in the way that this kind of travel does (I get a strange sort of anxiety about being engaging enough with my guides that they don't think I'm boring, or bored with them... despite the fact that I'm the one paying them and not the other way around) but I'm glad that I chose this route as my introduction to Egypt as it helped to squash the irrational worry I had about being there and focus on enjoying the absolutely mind-blowing sights and all the fascinating history behind them.
For my last day, I chose to go it alone, booking my own hotel so I could have some time to do some exploring in my usual way. I booked into the Windsor, located in central Cairo, a short stroll from the Egyptian museum (which I had already visited on day one with my guide). The reviews online all called it a "one of a kind gem" hidden in the heart of the city. A real "blast from the past"; "full of character", that leaves you "feeling like you've just stepped into an Agatha Christie novel". They were not wrong. At the front desk was a working switchboard. Beside that, one of the oldest operating elevators in the world. Everything was just a little bit dark and gloriously creaky. It was one of my favorite hotels that I've ever stayed in, and I wished I'd booked for more than one night.
The front desk manager was one of those locals who extolled the virtues of Americans, and was more than happy to give me walking directions to the famous Khan el-Khalili bazaar. A little bit of lingering anxiety had me double-check with him that it was safe to walk down there on my own. He laughed, "It's perfectly safe! You look Egyptian. No hassle! You tell your friends, Cairo is safe!" I may look somewhat Egyptian with my sunglasses on, but I learned very early in the week that my blue eyes were a dead giveaway that I was definitely not. When walking around without my glasses on I was subjected to no end of comments about my "beautiful eyes". This turned out to be the extent of the infamous "harassment" that women are purported to have to endure in Egypt though, and to my surprise it was far less intrusive than what I would often encounter when walking the streets of Paris. (No one grabbed my ass in Egypt!) Still, I found I was generally more comfortable keeping the baby blues under wraps when out and about.
A stroll through the bazaar, a bit of falafel for dinner and I was back at the Windsor, completely un-hassled/robbed/murdered. I can now declare (as I promised I would) that, apart from the ever-present danger of being mowed down in traffic (a happening that I had the misfortune to witness the very immediate aftermath of) Cairo is, in my own humble opinion, as safe as any other major metropolitan city. It can be overwhelming, with overcrowded sidewalks and non-stop horn honking, but if you've got a little bit of street smarts, a GPS, some sunglasses, and a dash of patience, you can blend right in.
So if you've been dreaming of the pyramids but you've been bested by fear-mongering or name-calling, I say to you, GO! Go all-inclusive if it eases your mind (or if you're the type who loves a bit of luxury), or book into the Windsor for a bit of adventure and plan your own itinerary... but do at least hire proper guides to take you to the major sites, just to get the full history (and the best camels)! Now more than ever, go to this "shithole" and every other "shithole" and show them that we will not be defined by the Neanderthal currently squatting in the Oval Office. We're curious and adventurous and considerate and open-minded... and we really, really love falafel... or maybe that's just me ;)
I've been out of the United States for more than a year now, and my accent (which had already devolved from a strong Boston inflection, to a sort-of generic Californian/American, to picking up bits of British slang from friends made on my travels) at the moment, isn't particularly easy to pin down. I've found since living in Chiang Mai and regularly meeting and interacting with people from multiple countries, that it can change drastically, sometimes over the course of one evening, just depending on who I'm talking to. As a result, I'm asked almost more often if I'm from Ireland or England than if I'm American. Since the disaster that was the 2016 election, it's always a little bit tempting to just nod my head in agreement and adopt a new homeland when someone pegs me as a different nationality, but I never have; and to be fair, there's been no real need to. I've found that most people in other countries have insight enough to realize that those of us who actually show up in their countries are likely NOT the ones responsible for voting in the Orange Nightmare, and that we are just as appalled about it as they are. Still, this was notably the first time I'd ever found myself in a country that had just been indirectly slandered by our Commander in Chief. To their absolute credit, not one local made mention of the comment to me while I was there. In fact, many insisted, upon learning that I was American, that they LOVE Americans and went out of their way to make me feel nothing but welcome in their country. It was a level of hospitality that left me feeling just a little bit guilty.
Despite very much not being a shithole, Egypt is one of those countries (especially since the 2011 Revolution) that we Americans are cautioned about visiting, especially if you're a woman: Don't go walking alone! Wear a fake wedding ring! Stay completely covered up! Don't even LOOK at anyone on the street! Complete social lockdown, they would have us believe, is the only way to avoid being assaulted or robbed or killed. Now, I've been to enough countries at this point to realize that most of America's fear-mongering regarding international travel is just that. Of course we should be cautious and mindful of our possessions and our surroundings, but that same advice applies to anywhere in America just as much, if not more than, in another country. Still, I was actually a bit nervous at the prospect of traveling in Egypt (particularly in Cairo) on my own, in a way that I haven't been with any other country.
I had booked the one-week stop on the way back to Thailand from South Africa because a friend of mine from the States had recently relocated to Dahab, and had insisted that since I was already going to be in Africa, I should meet her in Cairo to do the typical sight-seeing rounds of Cairo, Luxor, and Aswan. Visiting the pyramids had been on my bucket list for a while, and I doubted I was going to find anyone else willing and able to jet off to Egypt with me in the near future. Plus, it WAS on the way (sort of). Done and done. Unfortunately, my friend in Dahab was forced to fly back to the US for a last-minute work obligation just a week prior to our meeting in Cairo, leaving me to fend for myself.
With less than two weeks between learning I was flying solo and actually arriving in Cairo, I had to think fast. I looked into the prospect of hiring guides to take me on day tours of the various sights, and negotiating all of the food/lodging/inter-city travel aspects on my own. It seemed doable, but there was still this nagging bit of worry... Enter my travel companion in South Africa. She had solo traveled in Egypt just a few years prior and had booked a package tour covering her entire week there that took her through all the major sites and on a multi-night cruise down the Nile river. Food, lodging, attractions, everything, all included and organized for her. Plus, she had her own personal Egyptologist guides to tell her exactly what it was she was looking at and steer her clear of scammers. Typically, I would balk at the idea of a packaged holiday. It just seems too easy. Plus, being locked away in a bubble of chaperones, fancy hotels, and fine restaurants, would you really be seeing anything of the REAL country, or just the façade they put up for tourists? Still, my friend raved about her own experience and insisted it was the ONLY way to see Egypt... and I still couldn't quite shake my worry about being on my own...
And so I had my first all-inclusive experience: personal Egyptologist guides, private cars, four and five star accommodation, and a four-night cruise down the Nile. And it was pretty good. Having personal guides, alone, was well worth the cost (which was actually pretty economical considering the level of service) as I don't think I'd have learned a quarter of what they told me about the history of the sites I was visiting were I left to my own devices. I also probably would have been sucked into a scam or two before I figured out what was what and who to ignore. The cruise was a perfect way to spend four days of my trip, allowing for plenty of time to relax in my room, watching the world go by and decompressing from the rapid pace of sightseeing. Meals were all delicious, and I did quite enjoy not having to do my usual routine of wandering aimlessly until I find a restaurant with just the right atmosphere that allows me to blend in without feeling overwhelmed by a crowd or conspicuous for eating alone. Plus, the very first meal I had, after being picked up at the airport in Cairo at 6am, was at a little roadside stand near the pyramids in Giza that made delicious falafel pitas. So I did get a bit of authentic local atmosphere right off the bat! I don't think I'll ever get used to being catered to in the way that this kind of travel does (I get a strange sort of anxiety about being engaging enough with my guides that they don't think I'm boring, or bored with them... despite the fact that I'm the one paying them and not the other way around) but I'm glad that I chose this route as my introduction to Egypt as it helped to squash the irrational worry I had about being there and focus on enjoying the absolutely mind-blowing sights and all the fascinating history behind them.
 |
| The money shot |
 |
| Another country, another camel |
 |
| Temple of Horus at Edfu |
 |
| I kissed a Sphinx (and I liked it) |
For my last day, I chose to go it alone, booking my own hotel so I could have some time to do some exploring in my usual way. I booked into the Windsor, located in central Cairo, a short stroll from the Egyptian museum (which I had already visited on day one with my guide). The reviews online all called it a "one of a kind gem" hidden in the heart of the city. A real "blast from the past"; "full of character", that leaves you "feeling like you've just stepped into an Agatha Christie novel". They were not wrong. At the front desk was a working switchboard. Beside that, one of the oldest operating elevators in the world. Everything was just a little bit dark and gloriously creaky. It was one of my favorite hotels that I've ever stayed in, and I wished I'd booked for more than one night.
The front desk manager was one of those locals who extolled the virtues of Americans, and was more than happy to give me walking directions to the famous Khan el-Khalili bazaar. A little bit of lingering anxiety had me double-check with him that it was safe to walk down there on my own. He laughed, "It's perfectly safe! You look Egyptian. No hassle! You tell your friends, Cairo is safe!" I may look somewhat Egyptian with my sunglasses on, but I learned very early in the week that my blue eyes were a dead giveaway that I was definitely not. When walking around without my glasses on I was subjected to no end of comments about my "beautiful eyes". This turned out to be the extent of the infamous "harassment" that women are purported to have to endure in Egypt though, and to my surprise it was far less intrusive than what I would often encounter when walking the streets of Paris. (No one grabbed my ass in Egypt!) Still, I found I was generally more comfortable keeping the baby blues under wraps when out and about.
A stroll through the bazaar, a bit of falafel for dinner and I was back at the Windsor, completely un-hassled/robbed/murdered. I can now declare (as I promised I would) that, apart from the ever-present danger of being mowed down in traffic (a happening that I had the misfortune to witness the very immediate aftermath of) Cairo is, in my own humble opinion, as safe as any other major metropolitan city. It can be overwhelming, with overcrowded sidewalks and non-stop horn honking, but if you've got a little bit of street smarts, a GPS, some sunglasses, and a dash of patience, you can blend right in.
So if you've been dreaming of the pyramids but you've been bested by fear-mongering or name-calling, I say to you, GO! Go all-inclusive if it eases your mind (or if you're the type who loves a bit of luxury), or book into the Windsor for a bit of adventure and plan your own itinerary... but do at least hire proper guides to take you to the major sites, just to get the full history (and the best camels)! Now more than ever, go to this "shithole" and every other "shithole" and show them that we will not be defined by the Neanderthal currently squatting in the Oval Office. We're curious and adventurous and considerate and open-minded... and we really, really love falafel... or maybe that's just me ;)
